The Slow Rhode Critique

Approaching the Slow Rhode, a restaurant serving up Southern food with a New England flair in Federal Hill, Providence, I was amazed at how busy this tiny place was on a Monday night during a global pandemic. As I am not trying to kill anyone’s grandparents with Covid, I was pleased to see ample outdoor seating (only outdoor seating, in fact) with plenty of precautions.

Disappointingly, I was seated at their outdoor bar area which had a wooden board right in front of me so I couldn’t enjoy the atmosphere (read: spy on my dining neighbors to see what they ordered). The menu is short and sweet, but has something for everyone. I started by ordering their Bourbon cocktail (they were out of the Gin drink that was calling my name) at the shockingly steep price of $25. When the server saw the look of a shocked college student making minimum wage, he explained that the price includes three cocktails that come in a bottle to take home and enjoy later. Sipping my bottled cocktail, I was admittedly surprised at how well balanced it was, with not one flavor dominating the drink. I wish there was an option to only order one cocktail (instead of three) so I could have tried more of the menu, as each drink looked equally thought out and refreshing.

From there, I took the suggestion of my attentive waiter who recommended the duck drumettes and sweet potato side dish. I am a native Californian now living in New England who has never stepped foot in the South besides a quick airport layover, so I can’t attest to the authenticity of this Southern food. What I can attest to is how gently the tender duck fell off the grilled bone, which I quickly slurped down with the house-made tangy white bbq sauce. Working backwards, I ate my veggies (you’re welcome, Mom!), and while the sweet potatoes and kale were delicious, they were nothing special and the creme fraiche on the side felt like an afterthought from a distracted chef. I ended up scarfing down the meal and ordering more of the duck drumettes to take home and share with my roommate with the rest of my to-go bourbon.

If you’re looking for a relaxed night out with good drinks and southern-ish food, The Slow Rhode is the place to go and offers a welcome break from the rows of Italian restaurants that line the neighborhood. Make sure you grab the duck drumettes (and place an extra order to send to me). My only regret is not having a stomach large enough that night to try their chicken sandwiches, but I’m sure I’ll be back soon.